Long story as short, I looked deep into this and found thousands of trucks with the same exact issue and no fix from Ford yet: road force balance tires, no. Re-balance driveshaft, no. Replace rear axle, no. Replace driveshaft, no. Replace all rims, no. Wheel bearings, no. Brake components, no.
Rear diff ring, no. Driveshaft carrier, no. Rear diff shims, no. U-joints, no. Replace all tires, no. Replace rear shocks, no. Pinon angle, no. Front drive shafts, no. Front diff, no. Shim pinion gear, no. Torque convertor, no. Trans valve body, no. This has been an issue since No recall. No TSB. I was doing about 55mph, coming to a bottleneck where traffic was accumulating. I gently pressed the brake pedal, when my truck downshifted.
I was expecting a downshift, but instead my truck slammed into 1st gear, tires locked. I skid to a stop, dumbfounded. I'm not a mechanic, but I checked all the fluids and trans temp, which were all in operating range. I drove gently the rest of the way home, fearing that it might happen again, but it didn't.
The next morning when I left to work, there was a loud whine that seemed to be coming from the transmission at higher rpm, just prior to upshift.
I drove gently to work and back home later that evening. What recall? So, my question now will Ford reimburse me for the cost of transmission replacement, for what was a known faulty product? Transmission has a shudder when under a load. You can push the accelerator just enough at higher speeds that it doesn't down shift to make it shudder. Feels like a misfire but no codes.
Also periodically when you put the truck in reverse is shakes. My dealer has replaced the torque converter and valve body on the transmission per Fords recommendation but still no fix. Truck is still well inside factory warranty. The wrench light first came on around 42, miles, but would shut off when the vehicle would be turned off.
It came on a second and third time around the 50, and 51, miles. Sometimes it would come back on when driving again and sometimes not. Then the engine light came on at about 52, miles. When this came on, it would stay on. The truck would seem to lose a lot of power and the rpm's would begin revving higher while driving. This would be driving on all road conditions, highway or city, up and down hills. Will have to replace tcc and if condition still exists, replace the main valve body.
The first time the wrench light came on, was under normal driving conditions and not towing a camper. All the remaining times the wrench and engine light came on was while towing a camper. But this never seemed to automatically disable when we were hooked up to the truck. Another issue is when starting the truck up from a cold start it would make a rattling noise.
This only happens from cold starts. If the truck had been runner awhile, shut off and then restarted, it did not make the noise. Ford is still trying to determine what could be causing this. Unexpected transmission downshift on January 31, While driving on I 70 heading towards kansas city, mo from independence, mo, my F unexpectedly shifted into first gear while I was driving at 65 mph.
There was a large tractor trailer behind my truck that almost slammed into the back of my vehicle when my truck slammed into first gear. The tractor trailer swerved into the high-speed lane to avoid running into the back of my truck. No injuries or collisions occurred. I pulled over immediately and noticed that there was transmission fluid leaking from the front of my transmission. I called for a tow truck and had my vehicle taken to the Ford dealership in blue springs, mo.
The dealership informed me that my VIN was not one of the transmissions that had been recalled under the Ford customer satisfaction program 16n According to the recall letter, it should have been recalled, since my vehicle was built on June 28, , which falls within the time frame stated in the recall.
This recall also covers the power train for unexpected down shifts for 10 years or , Since the vehicle was thrown into a low gear at a high speed, it is suspected that the excessive pressure created blew out the torque convertor and front seal of the transmission. The contact owns a Ford F While driving approximately 35 mph, the vehicle started to vibrate. The vehicle was pulled over to the side of the road, shut off, and restarted; however, the failure persisted. The vehicle was driven to the dealer brandon Ford, e adamo dr, tampa, FL where it was diagnosed that the torque converter was faulty.
The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The VIN was unknown. The failure mileage was , Dealer found no code, sent back to me. I ended up driving this vehicle miles iwith the torque converter failing here and there until a code showed. This caused a very dangerous condition to all on the road and much unneeded stress.
I am very concerned what other components have premature wear due to continuing to drive my truck in this condition. I purchased an extended vsc from dealer but unsure what it covers so Ford will not offer extended warrenty, only offering oil changes. I do not want anyone to go through this same dangerous situation.
Please act on this before deaths start occuring. After reading up on the torque converter, the symtoms my truck experienced were exact along with the truck increasing rpm's although brake was applied. These converters are off-the-shelf dead-stock pieces that are not always designed and constructed for performance purposes.
Aftermarket high-performance torque converters are designed and constructed to take additional punishment, with features such as:. Stock torque converters come in sizes around 11 to 13 inches in diameter with stall speeds around 1, to 1, rpm. This RPM range is where you want a street engine to begin applying torque. You want a higher stall speed on a street engine when the application of power is expected to be in the 2, to 2,rpm range.
For example, if you have a hot cam and an aggressive induction system along with a rough idle around 1, to 1, rpm, you want a higher stall speed for better traffic light idle, higher in-gear quality, and proper application of power as RPM increases.
You want the torque converter to take hold stall at 2, to 2, rpm as the engine begins to make power. In other words, you want the torque converter to slip until RPM reaches the 2, to 2,rpm range. The type of torque converter you choose depends upon how you intend to drive the vehicle. Street cruisers do not need high-performance, high-stall torque converters.
Stock engines normally make peak torque around 2, to 3, rpm, with peak horsepower coming in around 5, rpm. Highperformance engines normally make peak torque around 3, rpm, with peak horsepower rolling in around 6, to 6, rpm. High-performance engines begin to make power at a higher RPM, which is where you want a torque converter to take hold with a higher stall speed. If you run a high-stall converter with a stock engine, slippage occurs until your engine reaches the high stall speed.
This makes normal driving difficult. Older torque converters have drain plugs for servicing, needed every 30, miles or 3 years. Never completely drain the torque converter due to the risk of pump cavitation. It must line up with a corresponding hole in the flexplate or you wind up distorting the flexplate.
Slippage and high stall speeds affect upshifts. At 5, rpm, the engine speed drops by 3, rpm with each upshift. This costs you precious time on the quarter-mile or at the traffic light.
This is known as a tight or loose converter. Much of the general technology is rooted in fluid dynamics and how fluid behaves under given conditions. And this fact alone helps determine your quarter-mile times and the way your Ford behaves on the open road. TCR pressure-tests every torque converter it rebuilds. If you liked this article you will LOVE the full book. Stopping distance in increased when event occures during cruise.
Incident occurred at near pedestrians and nearly caused collision. Incident occured in parking lot and caused slight bumber impact with stop post. Ford will not fix problem because no error codes are generated by the event, and cannot be duplicated by dealer.
I am formally seeking appropriate remedy to have torque converter replaced. I am baffled by Ford's lack of concern and unwillingness to fix a low cost warrantied component. I will have unit reparied by independent mechanic if Ford continues to refuse. Thanks for your support.
Other Power Train related problems of the Ford F
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